If you want ageless beauty as your skin matures, you need to know how to properly apply your concealer. Watch the video below for my pro tips!
Transcript of How to Apply Concealer
Good morning! It's your Mama Kitten and we're having coffee, doing makeup cuss and discuss: all things concealer.
So today I want to talk about busting out some myths on concealer for women over 40, and in my case, for women over 50. So one of the things that has become really popular on social media is the “white triangle” underneath here. Now I understand why people might want to do this because, you know, some people think that it looks good for the camera. However, as we get older, the last thing we want is a ton of opacity under here.
So I'm going to talk a little bit today about how to get a beautiful, bright eye, covering the skin to where the skin looks like you're Photoshopped. I mean, I don't know about you but don't we all want to look Photoshopped?
So one of the things that I want to show today is how I cover my dark circles, and give you some tips and tricks. So one of the things that I think that we should talk about, and I talked about in my other video that was quite a bit long, is how we conceal. Now, as you see, I'm just really dark right in through here, but I'm super crepey under my eye. And if I add a ton of opacity in that circular triangle, when I smile it's going to show all that crepiness, and then I'll just wear a frown on my face all the time!
The other thing is, I want to talk about how concealer can actually make your eye look smaller with the wrong techniques that I'm going to show you…and hopefully this will show up on camera; I don't know if it will. I can do it in a makeup class, I don't know if it'll transform on camera the same way.
All right. So, for me, I'm 51. One of the reasons that we get dark circles under the eye is that we start to hollow out and we start to lose fat under the eye. And what I do, personally, this is just a personal choice, you can do whatever you want. I'm not saying this is what you should do. Everyone has to make their own choices in life. But for me, I get filler under my eye. And if you are in Chicago: shout out to Dr. Lisa Fisher! That is the only bitch that I let touch my face. She's one of those people that does beautiful injections into the face without making you look crazy because, you know, sometimes we can get fillers and things in our face, and sometimes it makes us look older, trying to look younger. You know what I'm talking about.
So she does a fantastic job. And she gives me a little filler right in through here and that does is it. It's a play on light. It plumps this up so that when the light reflects, it doesn't look dark under here.
So what I want to do is, this is a very small little concealer brush. And when you're covering something dark, you can't cover it with something light. So you see, the reason that they put so much opacity under there is because that is basically color theory. It's just a play on light. You can't cover something dark with something light, because that dark color – the chroma – of that color is so strong that it's just going to peek through. So what you want to do is you want to look at the color value of the darkness that you have under the eye, and go in with a concealer. That is strong enough to neutralize it.
And so I'm going in with this little bit of…it has a little bit of salmon color to it because it's going to kind of neutralize that just a little. And I'm taking a very small brush. I've put a little of this on my brush, and I am literally just stippling this right underneath. I hope you can see right underneath here. And I'm only going right there. Only where I need it.
Now, here. All right. So now, pressing that in. Now notice I'm not going all the way around here, I'm trying to be Photoshopped. Okay, so now what I'm going to do is I'm going to rub my fingers, get them really hot. And I'm gonna press this in. So what happens is the hot fingers actually melt the product into the skin and makes it look skin-like. And I kind of smile and make sure everything looks good. And literally, that's it. And then I would come on, with a little bit of a whiter color if I wanted to brighten.
But, you know, for me personally, I wear glasses and so I don't tend to follow all the rules because I do wear glasses, and sometimes you can't see, but I am going to show you how I'm going to brighten this, and then I'm going to come on here with a little bit lighter color in the same area. I'm going to do the same thing. I'm going to kind of go here a little bit around the nose, where maybe I needed a little bit more coverage. And that's it.
Again, get my fingers really hot, and press. I mean I'm barely touching my face. I mean you really want to use professional makeup techniques. And this is the one thing that I'm really nervous about, you know, as we're coming back from this pandemic or are we going to be able to use our fingers still, you know? And this is really unfortunate if we can't because I do use the heat of my fingers a lot to really melt product into the skin, which would be really sad.
Now, I'm going to look straight ahead. Now one of the things that I see a lot of people doing is doing concealer all underneath the lash line. Now if you wear eye shadow along the lash line, why do you need to cover that redness up? Now I don't have too much redness under here, but I'm going to tell you why you might want to skip this step, because I want to look straight ahead here.
And I want you to notice the shape of my eye. Okay, notice the shape. Now, when I add concealer along the lash line, do you know what that's gonna do? It's gonna make my eye look smaller. Have a look. I'm gonna mix a little bit of these two colors together. I'm gonna try to do this. I'm gonna go here, under the lash. Look at that. I don't know. I have no clue what that's showing. But it's making my eye look smaller. Because basically I'm voiding out all the life under the eye.
So if you are going to put eyeliner, powder, shadow, liner or whatever under there, skip that step. Unless you have a cold or, you know, and you're trying to neutralize that, but if you see it does make my eye look smaller. I don't know, maybe it doesn't to you but it does. So, if you do that, just keep that in mind.
So now that I've done that, I'm going to do the other eye. And, you know, each eye could be different. I mean, we're not really symmetrical. So you want to adjust each application technique with whatever you're looking at. You know, think like an artist. paint like an artist, don't follow every step of YouTube. You know, look at your skin. You're smart, you can kind of figure out “okay, what do I need to do?” and look at it like a painting. I mean, we are really kind of painting, right?
And so, because I tend to sleep on this side, I actually have a little bit more darkness, which is crazy to me. I don't know why, but it does. And so I'm actually using this concealer, a little bit darker. It's the same color-value of the darkness that I have. Kind of stipple that on. Get them a little bit hot. Just press in.
Now, I don't know when you're going to see this video. However, if it's a year from now, and you're judging me for my nails. We're in the middle of a pandemic and I have crazy nails, and I got falcon feet, so don't judge! Oh my God I can't wait to go back and get a mani-pedi. All right. So I'm going to come in here with a little bit of this lighter one. And I'm just going to go right where I need it. Now, I'm also going to hit this a little bit through here. It's not that bad. This is why, for those of you that might follow me and have our first, our nude brushes. Everyone was like “Why did you make such a small concealer brush?” and it's literally like going in with Photoshop and getting everything good. Take the warm fingers. All right.
Now that you have all of that done. Now you want to come in and just press in. Now I'm going to do the under eye the same way that I did this eye, just so that I match. But let's see if this, if you can tell how it makes my eyes smaller. I'm doing this blind. So can you tell? Maybe it doesn't show up on camera but, you know, taking out and concealing that lashline like that can make your eyes look smaller. Hot fingers. Press them all in.
Now, the other thing that I like to do with concealer, around the eye, especially those of us who suffer from allergies, or maybe you just need to look like you got good sleep, is I like to use a little bit of eye primer on the tops of the eye. And I know this isn't really a “concealer” trick, but I do like to neutralize the eye itself, because basically what I'm trying to do is I'm trying to even out my canvas.
So I'm going to take a little bit of eye primer. I like an eye primer that has a little bit of opacity to it. And I like to use a flat brush, and so I'm going to tilt my head down a little bit, close my eye, and I’m going to “kitten punch” the top of my eyelids. And what this does, now, I don't wear a ton of eyeshadow, but what this does is it neutralizes any of the skin, so that when you apply eye shadow, it doesn't bleed through. It neutralizes it, so that when you put on eyeshadow, it actually looks like the color of the eyeshadow in the pan.
So, and you don't need a lot as you see, I'm covering it. But I'm not adding a ton of opacity. Oh my gosh my brows need to be done, but I don't tweeze my own brows y'all. I really don't – because I think I just suck at brows. I am a competent makeup artist in so many things, but brows are not my thing, Eugenia Weston if you’re watching, I need to come play with you one day to just learn how to do brows. I mean I can do brows, I mean I'm not saying I can't do brows but I'm just, it's just not my jam. And I don't know why, I guess because I came of age as a makeup artist, when really all we did was groom our brows. Yeah.
So that is that. So now I'm gonna do the same trick with my finger, and I'm gonna press this in. I'm just gonna go all around. So now I have my face done, my concealer, and I'm ready to start adding color.
So I hope this concealer video has helped you kind of master the concealer for those of us over 40, and in my case over 50, and I would love for you to subscribe to my channel. I'm gonna keep adding more videos every week, I hope! And I will see you again on Glossible!
So please subscribe, and I'll see you next time! Bye!
Transcribed by https://otter.ai